Landour Unplated: Secrets of the Hills' Coziest Kitchens and Cafes

Tucked into Uttarakhand’s Garhwal Himalayas, Landour feels like a storybook village frozen in time. While Mussoorie’s bustling Mall Road draws crowds, Landour, its quieter, quainter sibling is known for the colonial charm, literary legends, and a food scene that’s as rich as its history.

Landour Bakehouse

Start your day at the iconic Landour Bakehouse, a bakery straight out of a Victorian novel. Housed in a rustic cabin in Sister’s Bazaar, this spot revives recipes inspired by Anglo-Indian and Pahadi dishes. Sink your teeth into Joy Fasnacht’s Landour chocolate cakeor the decadent Betty Blickenstaff’s fruit cake. Don’t miss their flaky croissants paired with coffee, roasted in-house with beans sourced from nearby hills.

Pro tip: Grab a window seat early to watch the morning light dance over deodar forests.

A. Prakash & Co.

A short stroll from the Bakehouse lies A. Prakash & Co., a 1920s general store. This unassuming shop is famed for its peanut butter, which is creamy, crunchy, and free of artificial sweetness. Anil Prakash, the current custodian, still uses recipes from American missionaries who once called Landour home. Stock up on strawberry jam (a Nehru family favourite).

Pro Tip: Pair the jams with Monaco biscuits for an impromptu hillside picnic.

Doma’s Inn

For a taste of Tibet, head to Doma’s Inn, a cozy eatery where owner Tsering presides over steaming pots of thukpa (noodle soup) and shabhaley (crispy meat pies). The momos here are legendary. They’re juicy, spiced, and served with fiery chutney. The décor features Tibetan textiles.

Pro Tip: Try their honey flat noodles with ice cream for dessert.

Lotte’s Homebaked Goods

Run by expat Lotte and her husband Vidur, this café serves poffertjes (mini Dutch pancakes drizzled with syrup), stroopwafels, and sourdough bread baked daily. Their coffee, roasted onsite, is a must-try, especially during monsoon when the aroma of fresh beans mingles with rain-soaked pines.

Pro Tip: Grab a slice of apple pie and browse shelves stocked with Himalayan preserves and organic rock salts.

Emily’s at Rokeby Manor

Perched in the heritage Rokeby Manor, Emily’s offers a culinary time capsule. Dine under teakwood beams on their iconic pizzas or go continental with mustard chicken and sticky toffee pudding. The breakfast spread is worth waking up early for.

Fun fact: The manor once hosted Frederick ‘Pahari’ Wilson, a British adventurer who introduced apples to the region.

Ditch the guidebook, follow your nose, and let us know which of the Landour's eateries won you over.