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From local to global: Chefs innovating with nature’s bounty

A revival of hyper-local ingredients is transforming modern cuisine, as chefs reconnect with India’s culinary heritage

23 Oct 2024

In recent years, there’s been a massive resurgence of hyper-local ingredients in modern cuisine. Chefs and home cooks alike are rediscovering the rich tapestry of Indian ingredients, bringing age-old treasures into contemporary kitchens. From forgotten grains to indigenous herbs, these ingredients aren’t just delicious; they’re also packed with nutrients and support sustainable practices.

The Godrej Food Trends Report 2024 highlights the rise of hyper-local restaurants, led by visionary chefs and creators who expertly blend regional ingredients and flavours with international influences and modern techniques. Indians who had been exploring regional cuisines at home, are today rediscovering the rich offerings of their cuisine. This is driving “Indianness” to the fore across the food sector.

Here’s a look at three chefs who are championing ingredient-first movement.

Chef Prateek Sadhu’s NAAR – wild, foraged and hyper-local

Chef Prateek Sadhu pays tribute to his Kashmiri roots with NAAR, his intimate 16-seater restaurant in Kasauli, Himachal Pradesh. From Masque of Mumbai fame, Sadhu has always been ingredient-driven with the food he puts on your plate. At NAAR, the focus is on celebrating the people, culture and cuisine of the Himalayan region, offering a deep connection to its heritage through food.

Every ingredient is either grown on-site, foraged or sourced from local farmers and small producers, making each dish a true celebration of the Himalayan region’s rich culinary heritage.

He celebrates the wild foods he grew up eating and those he discovered throughout his travels, from the summer berries of the Himalayan belt to sea buckthorn from Ladakh, dandelion from Kashmir and the seasonal herbs found in the forests of Maharashtra.

Chef Manish Mehrotra – championing local farms

Regarded as one of the most innovative modern Indian chefs in the world today, Manish Mehrotra opened Indian Accent in Delhi in 2009 — a bold move during a time when it was almost considered blasphemous to have an Indian restaurant without butter chicken on the menu!

Mehrotra approaches his culinary creations with a scientific mindset, meticulously ensuring that the spice blends in each recipe deliver truly authentic Indian flavours. At the same time, he experiments with local ingredients and employs innovative cooking techniques to elevate his dishes.

Central to his philosophy is his long-standing relationship with local farmers, which underscores his unwavering commitment to seasonal sourcing. This dedication enables him to incorporate the freshest, locally grown ingredients into his innovative dishes. Some of his signature dishes include pork ribs with meetha achar and dal Moradabadi, Danish blue cheese naan, quinoa dahi vada, Kanyakumari crab with sago pongal, gobindobhog and mushroom payesh.

Chef Himanshu Saini – Sustainability meets innovation

While many Indian restaurants aim for dramatic presentation, few balance visual appeal with authentic flavours and emotional connection. Chef Himanshu Saini’s Trèsind and Trèsind Studio are notable exceptions. He launched Trèsind in Dubai in 2014 as a family-style restaurant that prioritised imaginative dining and expanded this vision with the opening of Trèsind Studio in Mumbai in 2018, focusing on experimental cuisine.

Saini draws culinary inspiration from his roots, emphasising the importance of balancing local authenticity with comforting familiarity. For instance, his garam masala features a fragrant blend of 15 spices, and the galouti kebab celebrates 18 spices in a single dish.

This philosophy shines through in the 14-course tasting menu at Trèsind Mumbai, which includes innovative dishes like arugula panipuri with preserved pear and feta crumble, dal vada with carrot kanji and black lime pickle, and khandvi ice cream paired with pickled papaya and chili.

Have you visited these restaurants yet? Tell us about your experiences in the comment section below.

Tags
Herbs Sustainability Seasonal vegetables seasonal ingredients Regional cuisine