A sweet legacy: Uncovering Durga Puja’s hidden culinary treasures

In West Bengal, Durga Puja isn’t just a festival — it’s a grand celebration of culture, tradition and culinary artistry! While the city dazzles with towering idols and vibrant pandals, behind the doors of the aristocratic bonedi baris (elite households), another world unfolds — one where ancient rituals meet the sweet symphony of family recipes passed down for generations. Each sweet, with its own unique story, reflects the rich legacy and refined tastes of Bengal's most elite families, transforming the festival into a journey through centuries of culinary heritage.

Narkel Chhapa and Kheerer Takti at Ghosh Bari, Karanjali

A unique coconut-based sweet, Narkel Chhapa is made using pressed moulds, often with intricate designs. The rich coconut filling is flavoured with jaggery or sugar. It is more than just a delicacy — Narkel Chhapa represents the sophistication and artistic sensibilities of Bengal’s elite.

Kheerer Takti is a flat, dense sweet made from thickened milk (kheer) and flavoured with cardamom. The sweet is shaped into thin slices or rectangles, making it a prized offering during Durga Puja. This sweet is considered a traditional specialty at Ghosh Bari, often served to guests during the festival’s many gatherings.

Peraki and Mithey Goja at Sovabazar Rajbari

Durga Puja at the illustrious Shovabazaar Rajbari was started by Raja Naba Krishna Deb in 1757. The grandeur of this heritage Puja is now carried forward by two branches of the Deb family, both hosting the festival on the same historic street.

An incredible variety of monda mithai (gigantic sweetmeats) painstakingly prepared by Brahmin cooks on the Rajbari premises is served on giant salvers (metal trays).

Among the traditional sweets, Peraki stands out as a must-have. It is a deep-fried, puffed pastry filled with sweetened khoya (reduced milk) with a crispy texture on the outside and a soft, sweet filling inside.

Another festive favourite is Mithey Goja, a deep-fried sweet that is later soaked in sugar syrup, and is beloved for its simplicity and crispy, syrupy texture.

Together, these sweets not only satisfy the senses but also reflect the timeless culinary traditions upheld by the Deb family during Durga Puja.

Nadus at Lahabari

Durga Puja at north Kolkata’s renowned Laha Bari, a tradition spanning over two centuries, is a cherished celebration of devotion and culinary heritage. Now hosted in turns by different branches of the family across three addresses, the Laha Bari Puja is unique for its elaborate offerings of sweets, without any anna bhog (rice offerings). An extraordinary variety of over 20 different mithai — from tiler (sesame) nadu and narkel (coconut) nadu to sujir (semolina) nadu, paan gaja, jibey gaja, jhad gaja, mooger (moong dal) daler laddu, maidar (all-purpose flour) laddu, chholar daler (chna dal) nadu, peraki, ledikeni, and pantuas — are painstakingly prepared and offered to the goddess. These sweets are not only sacred offerings but are later shared with visitors, embodying the spirit of community and tradition.

Chandana Kheer and Mata Chini at Pathuriaghata Ghosh Bari

Steeped in the grandeur of a bygone era, Babu Khelat Ghosh’s magnificent mansion at 47, Pathuriaghata Street, stands as a testament to Kolkata’s rich heritage. This palatial residence is also home to one of the city’s oldest and most revered Durga Pujas, where tradition and history come together in a celebration that has endured through the ages.

Chandana Kheer is a symbol of the Ghosh family’s commitment to upholding the highest standards of refinement during Durga Puja. This rare, fragrant kheer (milk pudding) is flavoured with sandalwood paste (chandan), which lends the dessert a delicate, aromatic essence.

One of the most intriguing and lesser-known sweets served during Durga Puja is Mata Chini, a simple yet exquisite offering made from sugar crystals and aromatic spices. Passed down through oral traditions in a few select households, Mata Chini is a rare find today.

Do you know of any other unique Bengali sweets? Tell us in the comment section.